Pantograph

Handy especially for engraving - maker's marks etc.

Can zero the gauges on the hand wheels by loosening the large knurled nut and hand placing the gauge at 0", before tightening it again

There are axis locks but you typically won't need to use them when engraving - X lock is underside of the machine below the knee, Knee lock is to the left of the knee wheel, Y is on the left side of the worktable.

Machine has two tables: Pattern table (which holds the pattern) and work table (which holds the piece being engraved).

All adjustments use 3/4" wrench, or the two small collet wrenches for changing end mill bits.

Letters and operator's manual in the right side desk drawer

3/8" collet is holding a reducer collet 

2D Mode

1. Decide on the reduction ratio - how small the result is. All three segments of the arm should be set to the same value indicated on the top of the segment. All 5's for 5:1, all 3's for 3:1 etc.
2. Styluses are 1/8" delrin.
3. Ensure it's at the highest speed if engraving (20k RPM); for larger bits consult the table on the plaque on the side of the machine
4. Ensure all the axes are ulnocked
5. Firmly attach your engraving pattern to the pattern table. If using the pattern jig, add the end stops and ensure the knurled knobs are tightened so the pattern stays in place.
6. Insert stylus; note the collar holding it in place is intentionally loose so it can be raised and lowered out of the design.
7. Load the desired engraving bit
8. Clamp down your stock material - you may use the stylus and the pattern jig to better align the stock to be engraved, and the toe clamp kit mounted to the side of the machine for holding it down.
   
9.   Throw hte red switch at the back of hte machine to turn on power, then the power switch is on the left side by the engraving table to start the spindle. NOTE: Low speed (i.e. "I") does not work, just use high speed ("II").

 

3D Mode

Discouraged for the time being - need some special alignment between the main Z pivot, the milling spindle end, and the stylus, which is easy to get wrong. Also requires the stylus to be the same ratio larger than the end mill (e.g. 5x larger for 5:1) and to match the topology (ball for ball nose etc.) which is also confusing and weird.

Size increases

Could swap the spindle and the stylus to do larger things, but it adds error and isn't the strong point of the machine. Requires moving the spindle and the whole tension bar etc. Never been attempted.

DIY patterns for the pattern jig/bar

2.5" wide, 0.150" thick, with 0.040" clipped off the end, with a 60deg dovetail. You may need to file it down to size for it to fit smoothly.

 

Missing / potential machining projects

• There's supposed to be a bar that slides into the hole in the front of the machine to align the spindle and the engraver. 
• There is an optional addition that mounts onto the top slide of hte machine to provide a profile to push the engraver up/down to handle circular engraving and such.